Landslides, leeches, yak trains and high altitude mountain passes on an epic 42 day remote exploration trek in the north east of Nepal from Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world to Makalu, the fifth highest mountain. This was a trip that very nearly didn't get off the ground due to heavy rains and landslides, but Nepalese ingenuity, transport workarounds and some hair raising makeshift river crossings meant we completed this unique section of the "Great Himalayas Trail".
Here is a short video of the trip highlights, with the full blog below. Hope you enjoy it !
For this 6 week GHT trek, i've split the blog into 4 sections to make it easier to follow :
Section 1 - Kathmandu east to Badraphur and the trek north to Kanchenjunga Base Camp
Section 2 - Western expeditionary trek across the Nango La and Lumba Sumba passes
Section 3 - North and West to the tibetan border via Thudam to Yangla Kharka
Section 4 - Makalu base camp and the long trek back via the Shipton La pass to Tumlingtar
Section 1 - Kathmandu east to Badraphur and the trek north to Kanchenjunga Base Camp
Kathmandu - 27th October
The flight into Kathmandu in the early hours of the morning was turbulent, with the plane weaving through the dense late monsoon rain clouds. It was touch and go whether we could land on the flooded tarmac at Tribhuvan international airport. Some flights had already been diverted to India but, after a bumpy touch down, I along with my fellow passengers waded through the ankle deep water to the waiting terminal bus.
The effect in Kathmandu and wider Nepal was devastating, with sections of the city flooded, roads and bridges washed away and large numbers of landslides. In total Kathmandu press reported that nearly 70 people had lost their lives.
The journey to the hotel was an early indication of the challenges to be faced getting to the east of Nepal to the start of trek at Taplejung.
By the 28th the skies had cleared and the city was getting back to it's busy hustle and bustle. We waited for news of our flights to Chandragadhi airport for the 2 day jeep ride to Sekathom and whether our porters, tents and equipment were making any progress to meet us there.
DAY 3-5 : Flight to Badraphur and 2 day drive to Sekathom
With the disruption to flights and roads, it was a big relief to finally get to the airport and, after some nail biting delays, take off for the Badraphur in the east near the indian border. The stunning views of the Himalayas were only slightly dampened by our luggage not making it onto the plane, but by late afternoon it arrived on the next flight and the road trip began. We just had to hope that the porters, tents and supplies made it to Sekathom too.
The next two days on the road to Sekathum via Ilam and Sukhetar were a masterclass in ingenuity to swap jeeps and buses multiple times to bypass major landslides which had blocked roads and valley crossings.
At some points we had to change transport, sliding down muddy tracks and gorge crossings with our kit bags and rucksacks and enlisting locals when the trails were too difficult.
day 6-9 : trekking at last ! up through the ghunsa valley to ghunsa village (3595m)
After a forced two day wait in Sekathum to allow the cooks, porters and equipment to catch up, we finally set off on the 4 day journey up the Ghunsa valley to the small tibetan style village of Ghunsa (3595m). The journey via Amjilossa and Gybala wound up through the steep valley through some beautiful traditional nepalese settlements with some vertigo inducing detours to avoid the recent major landslides.
An acclimatisation day at Ghunsa was a chance to explore this traditional village and surrounding temples and ghompas and, equally importantly, to wash smelly kit and dry out sleeping bags.
DAY 10 - 14 : the push to kanchenjunga base camp (5143m)
As we left the prayer flag festooned village, detouring to avoid yet another major landslide, the terrain was slowly changing from green forest to the barren high himalayan landscape. Over the next 5 days we climbed dramatically along the steep sided valley, opening up views of Jannu (Kumbhakarna Himal 7711m) and the surrounding mountains. Traversing and climbing monumental scree and rock slopes with the constant threat of rockfall required rapid sure footed trekking, but the views were spectacular. We passed Mera glacier with views of Mera peak (6364m) and on to our camping location at Lonak.
We pushed on to Lonak, a tiny settlement at 4785m which was the staging post for the final walk to Kanchenjunga base camp the following day.
After an early start from Lonak which overlooked the Kanchenjunga glacier, we followed the left side of the valley ascending another 350m to northside base camp where a side valley opened out to give stunning views of Kanchenjunga Himal (8586m) and the complex traversing route needed to climb it from the north side. We had time for some food and water before squeezing two trekking days into one and completing the 27km trip back down to Ghunsa before nightfall.
Section 2 - Western expeditionary trek across the Nango La and Lumba Sumba passes
The next section of the trek was the wild and remote six day high altitude crossing of two of the highest passes on the Great Himalayan Trail, ascending to 5100m. Far from any villages or settlements and with incredible views from Kanchenjunga, the Tibetan mountains and with glimpses of Makalu this solitary section of the route was unique.
The glacial valleys and pine forests are home to rare red pandas and blue sheep, with the remote possibility of spotting a snow leopard.
Leaving the Ghunsa Valley, we steeply ascended sketchy summer high pasture trails (karkas) on this 100km section, quickly ascending to the Nango La pass (4820m). Bhim, our sirdar, had sent out guides several days before to make sure that the pass could be crossed and that vital bridges had not been washed away by the recent rains.
Camping above the snowline we had spectacular views of the early sunrise and incredible sunsets but these were eclipsed by views of the incredible night sky.
Dropping down through alpine valleys and rhodendron forests, we (carefully !) crossed rivers like the Lapsi Khola still swollen with recent late monsoon rains. The rickety bridges including this cantilevered bridge were exciting to say the least, but the porters happily bounced across them carrying their 30-40kg loads.
We eventually dropped down into the first settlement we had seen for many days, reaching Olangchungola village where we spent an evening sitting round the fireplace in a local families' traditional tibetan style house. It was a unique insight into remote village life, learning that yak dung is better for heating as it burns hotter and longer than wood. Many of the villagers had relied on trade with Tibet - selling yaks, medicinal plants and trading other goods.
It was a welcome break as the next few days were spent in snowy high camps as we crossed the mighty Lumba Sumba pass, onto another remote valley and camping in the isolated tibetan village of Thudam where people seemed to live an almost mediaeval existence farming yaks and relying on supply trains to bring vegetables.
We passed heavily laden yak trains as they took supplies up to remote settlements near the Tibetan border. Sometimes having to quickly scramble out of the way as these untameable animals grumpily hauled their loads along the impossibly narrow tracks. Always vigilant as they bickered and bucked and ocasionally running for cover as they veered of the track in our direction. Sometimes we had to hunker down for well over an hour, counting nearly a hundred being herded past.
Section 3 - North and West to the tibetan border via Thudam to Yangla Kharka
From Thudam, we had one of the two most technical days of the whole trip. Traversing major landslides with sheer drops, clambering over treacherous tree roots and sketchy tracks with exposed sheer drops down to the river hundreds of metres below.
Following the exposed steep valley down, we weaved in and out of the side ravines and river courses, fully concentrating at every step. The views were spectacular but there was nowhere to stop and enjoy them as the trail weaved through trees and bamboo groves which were clinging for survival onto the steep slopes.
With relief, after a long day, we finally reached a tiny campsite - one of the many Kharkas - where we pitched the tents in a plot of cabbages which was interesting. The loo tent even had a cabbage inside !
The next day the trail continued north, on what would be a long section near the Tibetan border to get to the mighty Arun Valley, stopping at Chyamtang where we had a well deserved Ghorka beer (or two !) and where the expedition split, saying goodbye to the trekkers heading down the Arun valley and back to Tumlingtar. Seven of us were heading on tp complete the Makalu section of the trek via a northern loop near the Tibetan border. Our next destination was the village of Hongon where we would stop for a much needed rest day and food and fuel resupply before breaking a trail up to the Tibetan border and the remote traverse across to the Barun valley to reach Makalu base camp.
The route was definitely not for the vertically challenged, with forests and bamboo thickets clinging on to vertical slopes. We saw Hongon in the distance surrounded by millet fields in an area that is a bread basket for Nepal. However the trail wound tortuously along the wide valley for hours before we finally reached our destination.
Landslides, logistics challenges and losing porters on the trip had cost us two days delay on the expedition schedule so it was touch and go whether we would make it to Makalu base camp or have to cut the trek short to catch flights. We had recovered one day coming back from Makalu base camp but still had to find a way to recover another day. Further bad news was that we had lost nearly half our porters due to the challenges and length of the trip. Our Sirdar Bhim had to urgently find some new recruits so we could carry on. Hongon was a welcome chance to rest, restock supplies and meet the locals (see photo below) while Bhim and the guide team urgently recruited new team members.
The final section before reaching the Barun valley and our gateway to Makalu was a stretch that everyone was excited about. Five days traversing high valleys trying to patch together yak trails and trail blazing to find a way to the holy lake of Molun Pokhari, less than an hour from the Tibetan border. the route would then take us west with a climb of over 1500m to the black lake or Kalo Pokhari. Finally two more days of steep granite rock scrambling and trekking to break into the Barun valley for the Makalu section of the trip. At least that was the plan....
Steeply ascending from Hongon, we followed the pipes for the hydro-electric scheme which powered the village then branched off to climb steeply on a rocky trail for half a day up to a mini pass which took us to the magical holy lake of Molun Pokhari - a remote peaceful spot surrounded by mountains. Walking round the lake and ascending further we hit the closest point to the Tibetan border - a short walk up a side valley - which we had planned to do with more time.
There was no clear route across the tricky mountainous terrain and the temperatures were plummeting as the freezing mist came in so a decision was made to camp early to allow the porters to catch up. Noodle soup never tasted so good as we huddled in the tent !
The next day we dropped down steeply along a water course, with the terrain changing from sparse mountain scrub and rocks to a lush dense forest and bamboo thickets. We slipped and slid down the side of the river, roping up to crossing a long tree trunk to reach our jungle clearing for the night. Whilst pitching the tents a huge leech alerted everyone to the fact that the clearing we had trampled was crawling with leeches ! it was impossible to keep them out of boots and tents and even the food - most of us were bitten - including on the face at night !
Keen to get away from "leech camp" as quickly as possible we headed off early on what proved to be the longest trekking day of the whole trip. A 1500m climb up a series of rock gardens followed by a 20 plus km hike to reach a second holy lake Kalo Pokhari or black lake, set in an eerie mountain basin. The water was black and absolutely flat like oil and I took a photograph which came out like a fractal painting before the afternoon mist rolled in.
Another day, another pass - or two ! we climbed again heading up over two passes to cross into another kharka or summer pasture set in a high mountain valley with a river. That night was freezing with the tents covered in a rime of ice and snow which made packing them away a numbing experience. It also reminded me that I found a leech still attached to my frozen tent outer, still moving after 4 days proving how resilient these creatures are.
Leech fact check : Leeches have up to 300 teeth, have a distributed brain (32 mini brains), can drink 10 times their weight in blood (which I can attest to) and can survive up to a year without eating. Anyway enough about leeches and on to Makalu base camp.
The final day saw us trekking west down from Kharka through a side valley into the mighty Barun valley and then up to Yangle kharka which would be our next camp stop en route for Makalu base camp. We transited from the wild remote terrain into a wide valley with waterfalls and a well established trail although still having to navigate large land slides with precariously balanced rocks and shale.
Section 4 - Makalu base camp and the long trek back via the Shipton La pass to Tumlingtar
Reaching the Barun valley and the trek up to Yangle Karka felt like crossing from a remote dark wilderness into a warm, sunny, vibrant valley. The wide open sunlit spaces, the sound of the mighty Barun Kola river flowing through the valley, the vibrant pine forests and luxurious wild rhododendrons were uplifting. Our camping spot for the evening was a small group of buildings nestled in the valley with incredible views as the mist and cloud swirled up the valley in the afternoon wind. Camping in the grounds of a lodge, we had dinner by a wood stove, treating ourselves to a well earned Ghorka beer before turning in for the night.
The next morning was an early start to ascend another 900m passing yak kharkas (pastures) and traditional herder huts and the ubiqitous buddhist chortens (dome shaped spiritual landmarks) and mani walls (stone walls inscribed with mantras) on the route to Langmale Karka.
We reached the camp site as the temperature dropped and the mist closed in, having a traditional dinner of Dhal Bhat (spicy lentils and rice with potato curry).
Snow was forecast for the next day's base camp hike and the clouds had closed in so a decision was made to go for a 5am start to reach base camp in three hours and hope for a break in the weather to get views of Makalu. We were still a day behind so we would be covering two trekking days distance.
Starting off with a hot bowl of porridge and head torches, the pre dawn mountains were spectacular, showing glaciers and exposed rock faces as we trekked through the "moonscape" valley. The sunrise was spectacular as the light caught the tips of the mountains.
Makalu is nestled at the end of a side valley and was only visible after several hours of walking across barren rock strewn landscapes.
We reached base camp at 8am when, miraculously, the clouds cleared and we had spectacular views of the mountain. The guides were even more excited than us !
After an hour to soak in the views, take some pictures and grab some chapattis - oh and some strong coffee ! we quickly headed back down the valley to complete the 27km trek back to Yangle Karka, watching the clouds quickly descend as it started to snow.
It's sometimes a bit of an anticlimax when you've achieved your goal and have to head back but the final few days of trekking back to Seduwa and the "hair-raising dust-laden" jeep ride to Tumlingtar were anything but that ! Our journey down the valley and up the side to Debotay took us through spectacular landslides and a finale climbing a 2000 step ascent through pine and rhododendron forests to a high camp where we huddled around the stove with the porters practising our nepalese and learning about their life outside trekking - from farming millet, rice and livestock to working as a barista in a bar.
The route to our final high pass - the Shipton La - took us on a snow laden journey past spectacular high altitude lakes, views of Makalu and it's surrounding mountains and stunning scenery looking down over the clouds.
The trail was now cobbled with stone steps and wound steeply down from the pass at 4125m down to the lush forests and fields of Danda Karka and Seduwa at 1540m. Our final evening before we said goodbye to the porters was bittersweet as we counted out the tips and rehearsed for the presentation ceremony the next day. Meanwhile the porters (who were mostly from local Makalu region villages) had "hit the town" drinking rakshi (distilled millet or rice) and tongba (fermented millet drunk from a bamboo pot through a bamboo straw).
Unsurprisingly there were some sore heads as the trek leader, Robert Mads Anderson did his thankyou speech and we handed out the well deserved tip envelopes.
Then finally a last steep 2 hour downhill walk through the fertile valley fields crossing a wide river to the trail head where we picked up the jeeps to take us on the five hour drive through dusty rutted tracks back to Tumlingtar.
The dusty, rutted, rock strewn, landslide peppered, mountain twisting road gave spectacular views back on the route we had travelled as we headed back to our final night at Tumlingtar with a slap up salad (yes fresh salad !) and curry, with a special finale - Jagerman and his cook team had made a "kanchenjunga and makalu" themed cake.
Saying goodbye to the guides and awesome cook team, who had booked local transport back to their homes, we flew back to Kathmandu and a chance to have a shower and wash some pretty unsavoury kit.
We had spectacular views on the flight back - an aerial view from Kanchenjunga back to Makalu and Everest. The whole eastern himalayas was on show.
So how can I end a blog about such an incredible and challenging trip ? Firstly thanks to an awesome team of guides - Bhim, Pasang and Sanja who dealt with some massive logistical challenges including losing half the porters so we could continue the trek . The Cook team led by Jaggerman who never let us down and made life good with their tasty food after some pretty long and cold trekking days. The porter team who were superstars carrying heavy loads across terrain that I wouldn't have believed possible. Robert Anderson who as a hugely experienced mountaineer and international leader made the fun times more fun with his wacky sense of humour and the tough times passable with his experience and "can do" sense of adventure. Finally thanks to my fellow trekkers who made the trip possible and who which I will always share such incredible memories.
PS this blog is never going to end - it's just moving on to the next section of the Great Himalayas trail ;-)
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